Gas, propane, electric and induction
A burner that clicks without catching or an element staying cold puts the whole kitchen on hold. We work on every fuel type, and gas is handled under licence rather than passed along.
Cooktops signal clearly when something is failing. Reading the signal correctly is what stops parts being ordered unnecessarily.
Clicking but never lighting
Grease on the igniter tip, a hairline crack in its ceramic, or water sitting under the cap after a spill. Clicking that continues after the flame catches means the switch is sticking.
Electric element staying cold
Three candidates: the coil itself, the control behind the dial, or a burnt terminal block where it plugs in. Three faults, three separate tests.
Induction zone ignoring the pan
A failed coil or power board. Occasionally the pot itself is the problem, so we try a pan we know works before naming any price.
Yellow flame instead of blue
Fuel is not burning cleanly, usually because ports are fouled or the air mix needs setting. On propane this matters more, and we treat it as a safety issue.
Knob no longer controlling heat
The switch behind the dial loses its ability to cycle power. What remains is maximum heat or none, with nothing workable in the middle.
Any smell of gas
Stop using it and call. A loose fitting or failing valve is licensed work and these calls go to the front of the queue.
Fuel type first. Natural gas, propane and electric need different parts and different preparation.
Each burner tested independently, switches checked under load, wiring behind the panel inspected. Zones share circuits more than people expect.
Cost quoted before work begins, including whether a professional-style top justifies the part price.
Every burner tried, and on gas work the connections pressure-checked before we leave.
Cooktops report less than ovens do, though the handful of codes they show are worth knowing.
Electronic touch models reporting trouble in the board or the panel above it.
That cooking zone shut down after receiving a value from the element or sensor outside its accepted range.
Nothing detected on an induction zone, usually cookware without enough magnetic content.
Surface element sensor circuit fault, frequent on glass radiant tops.
The board under the glass has exceeded its temperature limit, almost always a ventilation problem below.
One button reading as permanently pressed, or the membrane behind the panel shorting against itself.
Child lock active. No fault exists here, the panel just refuses commands until the lock is cleared.
A relay or the supply board dropping out, which typically kills several zones together.
Induction electronics sit directly under the glass and rely on airflow from below. Where a top has been dropped into a counter with a drawer pressed against it, or insulation stuffed underneath, those overheat warnings return until the gap is opened up.
Give us a ring for the quickest answer, or leave your number and we will call back with the first available slot.
Everyday four-burner ranges right up to wide professional-style tops. Propane conversions are common on the rural roads out past town, and induction is going into most of the newer kitchens near the water.
Back burner clicked endlessly and never caught. Cleaned the igniter, replaced the switch, lights instantly now.
There was a propane odour near the stove and someone attended the same evening. Found a loose fitting, pressure-tested it, checked every burner before leaving.
Range and cooktop calls across the whole area. Anything involving a gas smell jumps the queue, because those cannot wait until tomorrow.
Leave three details and we will ring back with the earliest opening. The phone is quicker if the appliance cannot wait.
Open every day
7:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m., weekends included
Call the office
(289) 673-1762Where we're based
239 Barrick Rd, Unit 10, Port Colborne, ON L3K 5Z5, Canada
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